Baby Dragon Booties

If you’ve been hunting in the woods for some Baby Dragon Booties, you’ve found them!

I’ve put together this free pattern using the main part of the Parker Booties by Sewrella but swapping in the cuffs from the Crocodile Stitch Booties by Lolly's Crafty Crochet. Both of these are free online patterns in US terminology. I've made the Parker Booties for my granddaughter in DK instead of the suggested worsted and been very pleased with them.  When I was looking for some booties that used crocodile stitch, I found and made the ones by Lolly’s Crafty Crochet. It’s a great pattern but I like the roomier feet of the Parker Booties.  You can work out the pattern from the 2 original free patterns but I've adapted it and laid it out for you here in UK terms with photos for the tricky bits. There are plenty of tutorials online for working the crocodile stitch which will make things clearer, if you’re struggling.

I chose a variegated yarn to really show up the stitches. A more particular person would probably like to start both booties at the same colour variation so that they match but I just go with the flow. The shade code is 0477 and has purple in it – always a good colour for mystical creatures.

Thank you for choosing the Baby Dragon Booties and I hope that the little dragon in your life will have cosy toes wearing them. Any questions or comments are welcome. Do share any photos with me on Instagram @grannylawlorcrafts or on my Facebook page. Use #babydragonbooties

This pattern may not be sold but products made using it may be sold. Please let customers know that they came from Granny Lawlor Crafts.

Materials:

Hayfield Bonus Breeze DK - 30g (any DK yarn will do but check your tension)

4mm crochet hook

Aran weight yarn and a 5.5mm crochet hook will give a larger size of booties.

Sizes:

0-3m using DK and 4mm hook; sole measures 9cm

3-6m using Aran and 5.5mm hook; sole measures 10cm

Skill Level:  Intermediate

Abbreviations

All instructions are given in UK terms throughout. The equivalent US terms are shown below

	UK terms	Equivalent US term
CH	chain
DC	double crochet	single crochet
DC2tog	double crochet 2 together	Single crochet 2 together
FDC	foundation double crochet	foundation single crochet
FPTR	front post treble crochet	front post double crochet
HTR	half treble	half double crochet
RPT	repeat
SK	Skip
SLST	slipstitch

Special Stitches

FDC – foundation double crochet – casting on without making a chain first. I find this much easier than using a chain and you can find many tutorials online, mostly in US terms so google “foundation single crochet” – confusing, I know! If you prefer, you can use the chain method.

FPHTR – YO and insert hook from the front to the back around the post of the htr of previous row. Complete as for a regular htr stitch.

V-ST - (HTR, CH 1 and HTR) same st.

Tension

4.00mm hook: 9 htr x 8 rows to 5cm

Instructions for Baby Dragon Booties (Make 2)

Sole

If your yarn is variegated and you want matching booties, make the slip knot loop at the beginning of a colour section and make a note to start the 2^nd bootie in the same place.

 Round 1: CH 2, work 9 FDC starting in 2nd chain from hook; make 4 DC in the final foundation st. (Alternatively: CH 10, DC in 2nd chain from hook; DC in next 7; make 5 DC in the last chain.) Turn your work to stitch in other side of foundation stitches; DC 8; SLST to join (22 sts)

I weave my starting yarn end in as I work round 2. The alternative is to sew it in later. I’m all about avoiding the sewing!

Round 2: CH2; HTR in first st; 2 HTR in next st; HTR in next 6; 2 HTR in next 2; HTR in next 2; 2 HTR in next 2; HTR in next 6; 2 HTR in next st; HTR in last; SLST to join (29 sts)

Round 3: CH 1; DC in first 10 sts; 2 DC in next 2 sts; 2 HTR in next 5 sts; 2 DC in next 2; DC in next 10; SLST to join (40 sts - NOTE different stitches – easy to miss)

Sides

Rounds 4-5: CH 1; DC around in back loops only; SLST to join

Rounds 6-7: CH 1; now working in both loops, DC around; SLST to join (40 sts)

Now is a good time to sew in the starting yarn, if you didn’t weave it in, before the cuff restricts access.

Top of foot

Round 8: CH 1; DC in first 12 sts; [DC2tog, DC in next 2] 4 times; DC in next 12 sts; SLST to join (36 sts)

Round 9: CH 1; DC in first 14 sts; DC2tog; DC; DC2tog; DC; DC2tog; DC 14; SLST to join (33 sts)

Round 10: CH 1;  DC 10; 6 DC2tog; DC 11; SLST to join (27 sts)

Round 11: CH 1;  DC 10; 3 DC2tog; DC 11; SLST to join (24 sts)

(that is the end of following the Parker Booties)

Cuffs

Round 12-13: CH 1; DC around; SLST to join (24 sts)

(The following is the part adapted from the Crocodile Stitch Booties)

Round 14: CH 3; HTR in same st; SK 1st; work 11 V-STs - (HTR, CH 1 and HTR) same st - to end; SLST join to 2^nd ch of start (12 v-sts)

Rotate the bootie a quarter turn anti-clockwise. Work will continue “down” over the V-stitches.

Round 15: CH 2 (counts as 1 HTR); working from top to bottom around post of first htr of first v-st, work 3 FPHTR; half turn the bootie; CH 1; working from bottom to top around post of second htr of v-st, work 4 FPHTR; * half-turn the bootie; skip next v-st; working from top to bottom work 4 FPHTR around post of first htr of next v-st; CH 1; turn work so v-st is sideways; working from bottom to top around post of second htr of v-st, work 4 FPHDC; RPT from * around; join with SLST in top of last v-st and top of starting ch (6 scales in total)

Round 16: with inside of bootie facing you, CH 3; HTR in same st, including the gap between the scales below (1^st v-st); V-ST in sp in the centre of the scale below; * V-ST in next ch 1 sp, including the gap between the scales below; V-ST in sp in the centre of the scales below; RPT from * to * around; join with SLST in top of first htr (12 v-sts)

Round 17: rpt round 15, off-setting the scales from the previous row

Round 18: rpt round 16

Round 19: rpt round 15, off-setting the scales from the previous row

Fasten off yarn and sew in ends securely.

Make a pair and the booties are ready for the little dragon in your life! Do share any photos with me on Instagram @grannylawlorcrafts or on my Facebook page. Use #babydragonbooties

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Pumpkin Hat

Get ready for the Autumn season with this adorable pumpkin hat.

Crocheted sideways to get that squishy ribbed look and with a deep turn-up, your little one will be snuggly warm in the mists and mellow fruitfulness.

The pattern was written and tested using Stylecraft Special DK but any DK would do. Do make a tension swatch and adjust your hook if necessary.

Thank you for choosing the Pumpkin Hat pattern and I hope the baby who gets this will enjoy wearing it. If you have any questions or comments they are welcome.

I’d love to see your finished hats! Do share your photos with me on Instagram @grannylawlorcrafts and use #pumpkinhat

The pattern may not be sold, but products made with this pattern may be sold, please let customers know that the pattern is from Granny Lawlor Crafts

Yarn Requirements

Stylecraft Special DK: 30g Spice (orange) & 10g Bottle (green):

4.00mm hook

Size

To fit a newborn-3m baby.

Tension

4.00mm hook: 9 htr x 8 rows to 5cm

Note, the hat is worked into the back loops to create a more elastic feel but work the swatch in standard htr to get the tension correct.

Abbreviations

All instructions are given in UK terms throughout. The equivalent US terms are shown below

	UK terms	Equivalent US term
CH	chain
DC	double crochet	single crochet
DC2tog	double crochet 2 together	single crochet 2 together
FHTR	foundation half treble	foundation half double
FPTR	front post treble crochet	front post double crochet
HTR	half treble	half double crochet
SLST	slipstitch
TR2tog	treble 2 together	double crochet 2 together

Instructions

Instructions

Starting in orange

Row 1: CH3; 36FHTR. If you’re unfamiliar with foundation stitches, an alternative is: CH39; HTR in 3^rd st from hook; HTR to end. (36sts)

Row 2-42: CH2; HTR in back loop only, to end.

Align row 1 with row 42 and DC through both layers to make a cylinder.

Fasten off orange

With green yarn, make a tendril (optional): CH21; starting in the 2^nd st, 3DC in each st to end; fasten off.

Attach green yarn to the orange cylinder edge.

Round 1: CH3; work one FPTR in the end of each row; SLST to join. (42 sts)

Round 2: CH3; TR2tog to end; SLST to join.

Round 3: CH3; TR2tog to end; SLST to join.

Attach the tendril at this point, if using.

Round 4+: CH1; DC in each stitch, continuing in a spiral until the stalk is as long as you want it.

Finish off by working DC2tog around the spiral until 3 sts remain. Fasten off and sew in all ends securely.

I’d love to see your finished pumpkin hats! Do share your photos with me on Instagram

@grannylawlorcrafts or the Granny Lawlor Crafts Facebook page and use #babypumpkinhat hashtag

Fox Lovey - Free Crochet Pattern

Lovies are a combination of a cuddly toy and a comfort cloth that are suitable for babies from birth.

The Fox Lovey is my first ever design which I worked back in January 2019 because I’d just heard that my fox-mad daughter was expecting our first grandchild (our best Christmas present!). The head and arms are basic amigurumi shapes and the “skirt” is effectively a treble stitch doiley.

Since then, I have created the No-Sew Fox Hoodie, available in my Ravelry shop https://www.ravelry.com/designers/granny-lawlor-crafts  It seems a good time to write this up as a freebie to go with it. 

If you're not a Ravelry user then use this link to BUY NOW for £2.39

As with all my designs, I aim to have as little sewing as possible due to my dislike of seam-sewing. The ears and arms are joined in as the head is worked. A small chain loop is added as part of round 15 to make an easy, secure starting point for the skirt.

The eyes are worked when the head is half done to make access easy. I’m not good at embroidery on crochet so I keep it as simple as possible. I recommend looking at the many examples online and copying the one you prefer. Adding a mouth is another option. As this is for a baby, I do not recommend using “safety” eyes.

Although I’ve chosen the rather vibrant Jaffa in the Stylecraft Special DK range, you might prefer the more subdued Spice. If you want a softer pastel look, go for the Apricot and exchange the Black for Silver.

If you make this lovey, I hope the baby who gets this will enjoy snuggling it. If you have any questions or comments, they are welcome.

The pattern may not be shared or sold, but products made with this pattern may be sold, please let customers know that the pattern is from Granny Lawlor Crafts

I’d love to see your finished lovies! Do share your photos with me on Instagram @grannylawlorcrafts and tagging them #foxlovey #grannylawlorcrafts

Material & Tool Requirements

Stylecraft Special DK in:

Jaffa – 40g

White – 10g

& a small amount of Black

Stuffing

3.50mm & 4.00mm hooks

Tapesty needle

Stitch markers

Sizes

Point to point measures: 30cm

Tension

4.00mm hook: 8 tr x 6 rows to 5cm

Abbreviations

	UK terms	Equivalent US term
ch	chain
dc	double crochet	Single crochet
Dc2tog	Double crochet 2sts together	Single crochet 2sts together
htr	half treble	Half double crochet
sk st	Skip stitch
slst	slipstitch
tr	treble crochet	Double crochet
tr2tog	Treble crochet 2sts together	Double crochet 2sts together

Instructions

Ears (make 2)

In white, 3.5mm hook

Row 1: ch 2, 1dc in 2^nd ch from hook; turn (2 – 1^st ch counts as 1dc)

Row 2: ch 1; 1dc in same st; 2dc in last st; turn (4)

Row 3-5: ch 1; 1dc in same st; 1dc to last but one st; 2dc in last st; turn (10)

Fasten off yarn

Repeat in Jaffa

Make 2 in each colour

Arms (make 2)

With 3.50mm hook and black:

Ch3; slst join to start

Round 1: ch1 (counts as 1^st st); 5dc into ring; slst to join (6)

Round 2; ch1; 1dc into same st; 2dc into each st; slst to join (12)

Fasten off black

Join jaffa

Rounds 3-7: ch1; 1dc in every st to end; slst to join (12)

Round 8: ch1; dc2tog; *1dc; dc2tog; repeat from * to end; slst to join(8)

Rounds 9-14: ch1; 1dc in every st to end; slst to join (8)

Fasten off jaffa

Make 2

I don’t stuff these but you can push a small amount of stuffing in, using a knitting needle or something similar, to make the arms firmer.

Head

With 3.50mm hook and black

Ch3: slst join to start

Round 1: ch1 (counts as 1^st st); 5dc into ring; slst to join (6)

Fasten off black

Join in white

Round 2-3: ch1; 1dc in each st to end; slst to join (6)

Round 4: ch1; 1dc in same st; 2dc in each st to end; slst to join (12)

Round 5: ch1; 1dc in same st; dc; * 2dc in next st; 1dc in next st; repeat from * to end; slst to join (18)

Round 6: ch1; 1dc in same st; 1dc in next 2 sts; * 2dc in next st; 1dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * to end; slst to join (24)

Fasten off white

Join in jaffa

Round 7: ch1; 1dc in same st; 1dc in next 3 sts; * 2dc in next st; 1dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * to end; slst to join (30)

Round 8: ch1; 1dc in same st; 1dc in next 4 sts; * 2dc in next st; 1dc in next 4 sts; repeat from * to end; slst to join (36)

Round 9: ch1; 1dc in same st; 1dc in next 5 sts; * 2dc in next st; 1dc in next 5 sts; repeat from * to end; slst to join (42)

Round 10-13: ch1; 1dc in each st to end; slst to join (42)

Adding the ears & arms

Round 14: ch1; * hook through first sts on first the jaffa and then the white ear pieces then through 1^st head st; yarn round hook and pull through the 3 layers (2 loops on hook); yarn round hook and pull through both loops (this makes a dc through both ear pieces and the head); repeat for all 10 sts on ear pieces; 1dc in each of next 4 sts; repeat from * for 2^nd ear pieces; 1dc in the next 7 sts; join in the arms in the same way – 3sts through both sides of the open ends on each, adding a stitch marker between them; 1dc in remaining sts to end; slst to join (42)

Use a stitch marker to secure the working stitch while you add details

Adding Black Details

With white side facing you, join black to bottom right corner of one ear; ch1; dc up one side of ear, through both layers.

In top st of both layers: (dc; ch2; tr; ch2; dc); dc down the other side of ear through both layers, tucking any orange/white ends inside to give a little padding.

Fasten off black, sewing in ends along the black edges

Repeat on other ear

Using a tapestry needle and black yarn, embroider eyes. (I’m not good at this so I keep it as simple as possible. I recommend looking at the many examples online and copying the one you prefer.)

Remove the stitch marker and continue with head

Picking up from the stitch marker…

Round 15: ch1; 1dc in each st to the stitch marker between the arms; ch4 and dc in same st; 1dc to end (fastening off and keeping any ends to wrong side); slst to join (42)

Round 16: ch1; 1dc in next 4sts; dc2tog; * 1dc in next 5 sts; dc2tog; repeat from * to end (skipping the 3ch loop, leaving it on the right side of work); slst to join (36)

Round 17: ch1; 1dc in next 3sts; dc2tog; * 1dc in next 4 sts; dc2tog; repeat from * to end; slst to join (30)

Round 18: ch1; 1dc in next 2sts; dc2tog; * 1dc in next 3 sts; dc2tog; repeat from * to end; slst to join (24)

Round 19: ch1; 1dc in next st; dc2tog; * 1dc in next 2 sts; dc2tog; repeat from * to end; slst to join (18)

Use a stitch marker to secure the working stitch. Stuff the head as firmly as possible, easing the stuffing into to nose to get a nice point. Remove stitch marker and continue.

Round 20: ch1; dc2tog; * 1dc in next st; dc2tog; repeat from * to end; slst to join (12)

Round 21: dc2tog all round; slst to join (6)

Cut the yarn leaving a long end. Add more stuffing to get a firm head. Use a tapestry needle to thread the yarn end around the opening and pull tight. Fasten off securely.

Skirt

Using 4.00 hook and jaffa:

Round 1: join into chain loop at bottom of head; ch2; 11dc into loop; slst join to start. (12)

Round 2: ch3; 1tr into same st; 1tr in next st; * 2 tr in next st; 1tr in next st; repeat from * to end (18)

Round 3: ch3; 3tr into same st; 2tr2tog; * 4tr in next st; tr2tog; repeat from * to end (30)

Round 4: ch3; 1tr; 4tr in next st; * 1tr; tr2tog; 1tr; 4tr; repeat from * to last 2 sts; 1t; sk 1st; (42)

Round 5: ch3; 1tr in next 2sts; 4tr in next st; * 1tr in next 2 sts; tr2tog; 1tr in next 2sts; 4tr; repeat from * to last 3 sts; 1tr in next 2sts; sk 1st; (42)

Round 6-12: continue working in trebles, doing 4 trebles in each centre of 4 sts on the previous round and tr2tog over the each of those on the previous round, thus adding 12 sts on each round

You can do more or less rounds here, if you want a different sized skirt.

Fasten off jaffa; join in white

Work 1 round in white, maintaining the increases and decreases; slst to join.

Fasten off white; join in black

Work 1 round of dcs in black, maintaining the increases and decreases; slst to join.

Fasten off black

Finishing

Sew all ends in securely.

Block carefully: pin out on a blocking mat and, using a steam iron, hover just above your work, being careful not to scorch it. This does improve the look of the finished work but is optional.

 

  

I’d love to see your finished lovies! Do share your photos with me on Instagram @grannylawlorcrafts and use #foxlovey #grannylawlorcrafts

Here is a picture of what a lovey is not for but someone always has to put everything on his head!

Granny Hexagon Star

I’m getting ready to start a temperature blanket and I want it to feature stars – the intended recipient will have constellations on their bedroom wall. Although I like a 5-point star, pentagons need extra shapes to tessellate and that would make this blanket too large. A 6-point star easily becomes a hexagon which are much easier to put together.

I can find stars and I can find hexagons but not the 2 combined on a small enough scale so here’s my design plus the ½ hexagons that I’ll need down the sides.

The silver yarn I’ve used for the prototype will be my filler colour for the non-days at the end of short months plus the beginning of the first and end of the last. I’ll also probably use it for the border. The white yarn is just something from my stash that shows up the star. I’m planning to mark birthdays and feast days by including a metallic thread in the first round, if that works… more prototypes needed.

The pattern may not be sold, but products made with this pattern may be sold, please let customers know that the pattern is from Granny Lawlor Crafts.

If you use this pattern, do tag me @judijlawlor or #grannylawlorcrafts on Instagram. I’ll love to see what you do with them!

Tension

This pattern, worked in DK using a 4mm hook should give a full hexagon measuring 9.5cm measured point to point; 8.5cm measured side to side.

Abbreviations

All instructions are given in UK terms. The equivalent US terms are shown below

	UK terms	Equivalent US term
ch	chain
dc	double crochet	Single crochet
dtr	double treble	treble
rpt	repeat
slst	slipstitch
tr	treble crochet	Double crochet

Instructions

Granny Hexagon Star

In star colour:

Round 1: starting with a magic ring, ch3 (counts as 1tr) and work 11 tr into the ring; slst to join and pull the magic ring tight.

Round 2: ch1; dc in same st; *(2tr; 1dtr; 2ch; dc in top of dtr (picot); 2tr) all in next st; dc in next st; rpt from * to end, joining with a slst to beginning.

Fasten off star colour and join in surround colour at one of the picot sts.

Round 3: ch 3; dc in same st; * (1dtr, 3tr, 1dtr) all in next dc (inner corner); (dc, 2ch, dc) in picot st; rpt from * to end, slst join to 1^st ch

Round 4: ch6; tr in same space; * tr in next 5st; (tr, 3ch, tr) in ch sp at tip of star; repeat from *, joining with a slst to the 3^rd ch of the starting chain.

Fasten off yarn

Granny Half Hexagon

In surround colour:

Round 1: starting with a magic ring, ch3 (counts as 1tr) and work 5 tr into the ring; slst to join and pull the magic ring tight; turn.

Round 2: ch3; tr in same st; 2tr in next st; ch3; 2tr in next 2 sts; ch3; 2tr in next 2 sts; turn.

Round 3: ch3; tr in same st; tr in next 2 sts; (tr, 3ch, tr) in ch sp; tr in next 3 sts; (tr, 3ch, tr) in ch sp; tr in next 2 sts; 2tr in end st; turn.

Round 4: ch3; tr in same st; tr in next 4 sts; (tr, 3ch, tr) in ch sp; tr in next 5 sts; (tr, 3ch, tr) in ch sp; tr in to last st; 2tr in end st.

Fasten off yarn

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Baby Daisy Sun Hat

I've just released my first real crochet pattern on Ravelry at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/baby-daisy-sun-hat !

Please welcome the Baby Daisy Sun Hat!

If you want to purchase this pattern without being a Ravelry member then click here: BUY NOW

I've been curious about how online sales of patterns works and I love browsing patterns at Ravelry so, when I wanted a particular item to look a particular way and couldn't find what I wanted, I knew it was time to take the plunge.

My first grandchild is due this year and we know it’s a girl! The due date is late summer, so any new-born article needs to be light. This flowery sun hat drifted into my mind, on a lazy summer breeze.

The first doodle for the design worked up to a tiny size with a circumference of only 22cm – that would only fit a very precious 2-3lb preemie!  I did a bit more planning and modifying and ended up with a new-born size, ready for our eagerly awaited grandchild.

With other babies around, I’ve worked up the Daisy Sun Hat in 4 sizes up to 2 years and added them in. It has to be said that the lovely babies that have tried on the hat vary greatly from the standard sizes so I'd always go with the baby measurements rather than age!

Although the design is modelled on a daisy, it would look lovely in other colours to create asters, gerberas, etc.

Designed in Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, the lacy pattern makes it cool to wear however it does not provide total protection from the sun. It's an interesting balance - coolness vs protection.

This is in the nature of an experiment. It came about because I couldn't find what was in my head.  I'm pleased with my design and how it looks on my little models. It's out in the world now and I hope people enjoy it. Who knows what will be next!

White Stole with cog design

 A bad thing happened to the first stole I made for Paul's ordination in 2008.
Indelible ink designed for filling in wedding registers won't wash out so it was time to make a new one.




I still had the length of ivory, slubbed silk from the first one and a cog design sprang to mind. Paul originally being an engineer and the way that cogs fit together, working together, it's a good image. 3 equal sized cogs on one side representing the trinity and different sizes on the other, representing different people or communities working together, with the possibility of the trinity linking in.

The cogs are lining material in gold and bronze (which I already had) and a silver grey which had to be ordered. I also needed to order the "strongest" bonding so that the teeth on the cogs wouldn't fray.




Here the right-hand side is shown with the cogs bonded. You can see that the silk is very pale compared to the first stole. They really are the same fabric so it's slightly disturbing how discoloured the first one is...












In this picture you can see the image used for the design. It was downloaded from a steam-punk design and enlarged to fill the whole width of the stole.
The 3 trinity cogs have been edged with goldfingering in silver, antique gold and regular gold. There isn't a copper or bronze colour so the 2 different golds had to serve.


In this image, metallic buttons and sequins have been added for the centres of each cog. Each button post has been pulled through the silk plus a square of white felt and fixed with a tiny safety pin.
I haven't edged the internal spaces of the cogs. I was concerned that it wouldn't be easy to do it neatly plus, time was running out. Paul needs them on Sunday and this is my last free day.

The finished product - I'll try to get a more focused photo.